Sunday, July 22, 1973
Our second day in Haines, we discovered what it’s like to explore roads that just peter out and end.
I’ve never lived on an island, or anywhere else that isn’t connected by road to the wider world. When I went to Alaska in 1995, one of the things that really disconcerted me when I rented a car in Juneau (it was the only way at the time to get out to Mendenhall Glacier without hiking for miles since the bus didn’t go that far — I’m not sure why I didn’t just take a taxi because I know there are taxis in Juneau) was that all the roads out of town just ended. All four of them. Not at any sort of destination or anything. The pavement would go for a few miles and peter out into gravel, which gradually changed over to dirt and then just stopped, out in the middle of nowhere. It was extremely disconcerting.
I remember in Ketchikan, too, asking a lady in one of the shops along Creek Street how she liked living there. Her response burned into my brain: “Oh, it’s okay as long as you can get off the rock once in a while.” It was right then that I realized I could never, ever live in a place I couldn’t just drive away from. Ferries are all well and good, but they’re expensive and require reservations and run on their own schedule, not mine. I need to know I can get away when and as often as I need to.
Anyway, except for the Haines Highway that we’d come in on, all the roads in Haines did that, too. Just petered out. Ended at nowhere. All the roads in all of the panhandle of Southeast Alaska still do that, except for the White Pass Highway out of Skagway and the Haines Highway.
In the morning of this day we drove on the Lutak Road out past the ferry terminal where the pavement ended, and on to Chilkoot Lake.
My diary says it was very pretty, and this picture bears that out.
On our way back from the lake, we stopped at a place where the road fords the river, and my father rinsed the car off. I suspect it needed it pretty badly by that point.
We also stopped at the ferry terminal and made walk-on reservations to go to Skagway for the day the next day.
In the afternoon, we drove out the Mud Bay Road, which my diary says wasn’t so great, but not why. But possibly because it started to rain yet again. We went back to the trailer after that and played more cards.
Oh, and this day was my mother’s birthday. My diary says that we would celebrate it after we got home.